Inside are trays of wheat, preparing to begin their journey to becoming fermented loaves. “It’s my first fermentation cave.” He opens the door of a clay outhouse, one of two in his garden built in the style of a rondavel (a traditional African hut). “We’ll start in this one,” says James Kuiper. Then we slip off to bed in our candlelit rooms, soothed by the utter darkness and quiet of the wild. On the last evening, Justin passes me a honeyed brandy on ice and I look up at the sickle moon, set against a sky dotted with a thousand stars. Hungry from the hike, I butter a toasted slice then reach for a warm vetkoek, a ball of deep-fried bread dough that we’re encouraged to stuff with minced meat and ripe avocado, or sprinkle with cinnamon and brown sugar. When we return, Emmy, who lives on the farm and helps in the kitchen, makes a sweet sourdough loaf. One morning, we rise before dawn to join a guided hike to the majestic Wolfberg Arch rock formation. We also visit Cederberg Wines to taste reds and whites grown at high altitude and swim in a pristine mountain rock pool. “I want people to remember what it’s like to break bread and what the stillness of the mountains can do for our spirits,” he says. His aim with Red Cederberg is to remind guests of the simple pleasures of good food, conversation and connecting, free of modern distractions. Our host is Justin Bonello, a prominent figure in South Africa’s food scene for the past two decades who’s known for his TV shows Cooked in Africa and The Ultimate Braai Master. At the restored Keurbosfontein farmhouse, a group of adventurous food-lovers has gathered for a long weekend of cooking over fire and communal dining - in short, a whole lot of smoky food, washed down with crisp chenin blanc. How fitting, I think, for here in the red mountains of the Cederberg region, time seems to have stopped. On the mantelpiece of the former wagon room, among what seems like a thousand curiosities and trinkets, stands a little old clock, its arms frozen at 10 past eight. We leave them crushing grapes to the sound of an old Bob Dylan song. Harvest is in full swing and interns from Italy and Japan are helping bring in pallets of grapes for this year’s vintage, while a record player blasts out classics. In the morning, coffee and eggs are followed by a snoop around the wine cellars. It’s in The Silo room, one of the farm’s five accommodation options it’s round and high, like a little white Rapunzel tower, with a separate glasshouse reading room outside and a plunge pool. As it grows late, I’m reluctant to leave, as many of the others seem to be just settling in, but my bed is too near to be resisted. Pizzas are shared between guests and a convivial mood prevails. Unauthorized use is prohibited.Ī long table in the courtyard is set aside for the regulars and local winemakers. “It’s not about being complicated,” says Charl, “it’s just about quality ingredients.” The pillowy crust, which has gained flavour during its long, 48-hour ferment, has been wood-fired to perfection. Then the pizza arrives - melted mozzarella, hot honey and ’nduja. South Africa’s Winelands region is known for its stunning natural beauty, and as I move on to a glass of AA Badenhorst Secateurs Red (half shiraz with grenache and cinsaut), I savour the taste of the Swartland bush vines. The menu, which I stain with olive oil as I dip some fresh bread, is simple: the classics, but with a Badenhorst twist. Bookings are made via WhatsApp - Charl’s number is on the website. Then, as restrictions lifted, people began hanging around for a glass of wine, until eventually Semma and Charl started laying the tables. It began during the 2020 lockdown as a pop-up, with neighbours driving over to collect wood-fired pizzas to order. As I sip, she explains the origins of the farm’s legendary pizza night. His wife, Semma, hands me a glass of Caperitif - an amber-coloured vermouth made on the farm and infused with local fynbos (a local evergreen) - mixed with tonic. Pizza nightĪt Kalmoesfontein Farm, in the town of Malmesbury, Charl Badenhorst is tending to the pizza oven and hand-stretching dough. This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
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